The Forbidden City!
Built between 1406 and 1420, the Forbidden City was called so because it was the home of the emperor and therefore commoners were forbidden to enter it. For 500 years, China's rulers, 24 of them from two dynasties, the Ming and the Qing ("Ching"), lived and ruled from here. The buildings were red and had yellow tile roofs; the two colors of Chinese royalty. The roofs I saw were all red tile, so that practice has changed over time.
The Tour Begins
The weather was still freezing cold after the snow storm the day before, so I was bundled to the hilt in many layers of the warmest clothes I'd brought with me. I looked rather like the Pillsbury Dough Boy swathed in numerous types of winter garb. I was not making a fashion statement; I was trying to stay warm!
Our tour group walked to the edge of Tiennamen Square (see my previous posting, Tiennamen Square) to cross the street to the Gate of Heavenly Peace, which was built as the entrance to the Forbidden City. I was surprised to see a parking lot in front of it.
The Gate of Heavenly Peace as seen from the edge of Tiennamen Square across the street. 0525
I was amazed to see (South) Korean flags flying on the flag poles attached to the lamp post. It wasn't until later that I realized why they were there. 0526
A picture directory to the Forbidden City buildings is posted on the building. 0528
The approach to the entrance had a plinth-type monument guarded by a stone fence and uniformed guards wearing drab green uniforms. 0529
A long view of the right side of the gate, showing China's national flags flying, another indication - in addition to the Korean flag - that this was not an ordinary day. 0530
Beautiful stone balustrades line the bridge leading from the parking lot to the entrance tunnel in the Gate of Heavenly Peace. 0531
The red and gold seal of Communist China placed prominently on the ancient facade of the Forbidden City entrance building is an incongruous sight. Also an arrogant statement. 0532
Buveh in front of the Gate of Heavenly Peace, the entrance to The Forbidden City! 0533
After we had all taken as many photos as we wanted to, our guide led us to the Gate of Heavenly Peace. It is a beautiful building in traditional Chinese architectural style and decor, the lower portion of which had a tunnel that was the entrance to the City.
A Bit of Background
Our guide told us that the Forbidden City is built in sections, each surrounded by walls composed of buildings. One's social status in the China of that day determined how far into the city one would be allowed to go - or if one would be allowed to enter at all.
The large, heavy red-painted barrier doors to the tunnel and which opened inward were decorated with parallel rows of large bumps that had been touched so many times their gilt coating had varying degrees of missing gilt. Touching one of the door bumps for good luck when passing into the tunnel was standard procedure and symbolized that one was a at least a cut above the rest of Chinese humanity.
The higher the row of bumps, the less worn the gilt because fewer people were able to reach high enough to touch bumps on the upper rows. Naturally, we each touched at least one bump as we passed the door. 0535
Then we were inside the tunnel, which was as long as the building above was deep, on our way into The Forbidden City! 0536
A Little History
Our guide told us that every aspect of the complex was designed to overpower and intimidate the visitor. It is a vast maze with wide open spaces, massive buildings and, at the back, a forest of trees and it does, indeed, make one feel small and insignificant.
According to National Geographic, the city was planned according to city planning principles that had been established for 15 centuries and based on a Confucian-era tome. It was necessary for a capital city to be arranged correctly in order for the ruler to "be the mediator of cosmic balance between heaven and earth." Made of primarily wood, various parts of the city have burned down and been rebuilt over the centuries.
Our tour group exited from the tunnel into an open courtyard with snow-topped trees and roofs and a layer of snow and ice on much of it. It was an open courtyard with buildings on three sides and the Gate of Heavenly Peace behind us.
To my right was this line of buildings, forming a portion of a wall formed of buildings. 0538
One of the buildings along the side wall. The imperial red color is prominently used. 0539
Close-up of one the light fixtures, which are modern additions, of course. 0540
Notice the typical architectural features of the tile roof slightly upturned at the edges, red paint, and beautifully painted decorations just below the roof. 0541
Closer-up of the decor on the building. Two rows of tiled eaves, a red-framed calligraphy sign, and red pillars with carved wooden capitals. And, of course, the red building itself. 0543
The Four Gates
An emperor's responsibilities included maintaing peace and harmony in his domain. The names of gates and buildings promote these ideals.
There are four gates leading into the Forbidden city, the first three are at increasing distances from each other. They are the Gate of Heavenly Peace (the entrance), the Gate of Uprightness, the Meridian Gate, and finally, the Gate of Supreme Harmony, which leads into the city proper.
We approached the Gate of Uprightness, directly ahead of us. 0544
The tunnel entrance loomed; note that the door has rows of bumps and the archway is built to make the visitor feel small and insignificant. 0545
Inside the tunnel. 0546
Out in the open again, I spied a tourist shop at mid-distance. In the background is the Meridian Gate, a beautiful traditional building and the place from which imperial proclamations were read and military parades were reviewed by the emperor. 0548
This gate is U-shaped, with a wide central building housing the entrance tunnel, and two arms protruding toward the Gate of Uprightness, where we had just come from.
The ends of these arms have towers with fabulous architecture and decorations that stand atop high pedestals. 0549
A wider view of the Gate. 0550
Close-up of the upper level of the Gate, showing the intricate, painted decorations between the tile roof and porch overhang. 0551
Soldiers/guards were everywhere, keeping an eye on things. I was uncomfortable letting them see me taking photos of them so I waited until they had passed me! 0552
Approaching the Meridian Gate. 0555
Nice view showing the ornate white stone railing around the Gate and the red lattice partitions behind the pillars. 0556
Corners and angles where one of the arms meets the central building of the Gate. 0557
View upward at the corner. 0558
Close-up of sign and decorations. 0559
Detail. 0561
A good view of the double eaves, the pillars, the overall style and ornately decorated battlements. 0562
Note the painted pillar capitals and trim on the beam joining the pillars. This view shows the battlements clearly. 0564
We crossed the courtyard, heading toward the Meridian Gate.
Guard house outside the Meridian Gate. 0565
Tunnel going through the Gate of Supreme Harmony. 0566
An additional decoration among the rows of bumps on the door. 0569
Ornate lamp, one in a series that lined both sides of the tunnel. 0570
We exited into the bright winter morning and saw ahead of us the four glorious Golden River Bridges with their ornately carved stone balustrades.
Snow covered bridge with ornate white stone balustrades and, in the background, the Gate of Supreme Harmony. Each succeeding gate was more elaborate and impressive than the previous one! 0572
White stone bridge, with sky reflected in a semi-circle of light, with beautiful red building buildings of the outer perimeter in the background. The entire City is photogenic. 0573
Full view of the Gate of Supreme Harmony. 0574
Looking back the way we had come. Magnificent detail work. 0575
Close-up of stone balustrades over bridge. 0578
Detail of stonework on bridge. 0579
Long view. Notice snow along the white stone "fence." 0580
Corner shot. It is so lovely with corners and angles that I couldn't resist taking a photo of it. Note the semicircle of the bridge balustrade and the triangle of golden decoration at the end of the upper eave. 0581
Up the ramp leading through the Gate of Supreme Harmony we go. This gate is not built upon heavy fortifications and is much more welcoming that the previous three gates. Only the imperial family and the highest government officials could enter. 0582
We were inside the central portion of the City at last!
The Center of the Forbidden City
View of building with stonework in foreground. 0583
Hall of Central Harmony is the central building in the Forbidden City. Its roof design proclaims that it is the most important building in the City. There are three ranks of decorous white teraces leading up to the building itself and are magnificent to see. The sole purpose of the building is to house the Emperor's Throne, where the ruler sat on significant state occasions.
From the emperor's throne to the Gate of Heavenly Peace is a distance of more than half a mile. We had come a long way!
Hall of Central Harmony. Note the scaffolding and protective covering across the front of the building and extending around the sides. Refurbishment was taking place in preparation for the 2008 Summer Olympics that were coming to Beijing in a few months. 0584
View of the Hall from a distance, as I came down the inside ramp into the courtyard. Note the snow in the foreground. 0585
View across the partially ice and snow covered moat, with stone balustrade in foreground. A grand and impressive sight. 0586
When we got to the Hall itself, I took this picture from under the portico. 0589
I took so many photos of the Forbidden City that they would be too much to fit into one blog entry. See the next entry, Forbidden City - Part Two, to lsee the rest of the city, learn why Korean flags were flying outside the entrance of the City and what body guards do!
