Note: I credit National Geographic Magazine's fabulous May 2008 Special Issue, "China: Inside the Dragon," and in particular its free poster map of the Forbidden City, for many of the specific details about the Forbidden City that will follow.
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The Forbidden City!
Built between 1406 and 1420, the Forbidden City was called so because it was the home of the emperor and therefore commoners were forbidden to enter it. For 500 years, China's rulers, 24 of them from two dynasties, the Ming and the Qing ("Ching"), lived and ruled from here. The buildings were red and had yellow tile roofs; the two colors of Chinese royalty. The roofs I saw were all red tile, so that practice has changed over time.
An online source I found states that in Chinese architecture, all royal structures consist of "three elements: 1. A platform, 2. Post-and beam timber frames, and 3. Non-loadbearing walls" and that "imperial building complexes include a front gate, four-sided enclosures or courtyards, and a series of halls in a linear formation running from the South to the North." (See http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Beijing/blog-80674.html.)
Central Part of the Forbidden City
The city's center was reached by walking up a ramp and through the Gate of Supreme Harmony. 0582
Snow from the previous day was compacted over most of the walkways and flat surfaces in spite of the clear blue, sunny skies. It was still cold but was more tolerable than the day before and I was so covered with layers of warm clothing I was the shape of the Pillsbury Dough Boy, but I was warm!
I stood on the ramp leading down from the Gate of Supreme Harmony and took pictures on the four sides of the court.
This building was to the right. 0588.
The Hall of Central Harmony was ahead. 0585
On the left was this scene. 0586
Close-up of the lovely building on the left. 0583
Framed view from under the portico. 0589
First view of the roof guardians, replica animals representing various elements of Chinese mythology. A building's rank is shown by the number of guardians on each eave, ten denoting the highest rank and reserved only for the Hall of Supreme Harmony, where the emperor's throne sat.
Here, the guardians appear in silhouette. 0590
Close-up of the protective guardian animals on the curved eaves of the roof.
0612
A large caludron, one of several placed at intervals about the courtyard. 0591
View of cauldron in it's snow-covered setting, with a modern construction barrier separating it from the white carved stone terraces.. 0592
A nearby sign. 0601
View looking back the way we had come in, through the Gate of Supreme Harmony. 0602
The Hall of Supreme Harmony
This building housed the emperor's throne and where he performed many official governing acts.
Close view of the balustrades on the four terraces surrounding the Hall of Central Harmony. 0604
View of corners and angles formed by the architecture of the various buildings. 0605
View of the terrace balustrades, looking up. 0607
A downward view. From any angle, the stonework and symmetry is stunning. 0609
View across the topmost terrace to the building on the right. 0610
Scaffolding encased one side of the Hall, which was being refurbished in preparation for the hordes of 2008 Summer Olympics visitors expected to tour the site during the sports events. 0615
Close-up of the latticework doors on the Hall of Central Harmony. 0611
View of the double eaves and the elaborate carving on the peak of the building. 0616
Closeup of the carving. It's a dragon! 0617
Detail of the carvings on the column capitals. 0618
Symmetrical view along the portico of the Hall. 0619
Our guide pointing out our location on a map of the Forbidden City. I asked if I could get a copy of the map and he said yes but it didn't happen. The one from National Geographic is more detailed, however, so I can't complain. 0622
Interesting view through an opening to a building beyond. Notice the large cauldron on the left. 0623
Sign explaining in English about the Hall of Central Harmony. 0625
The sign reads,
(Hall of Central Harmony)
First constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty, Zhong He Dian was destroyed and reconstructed several times over the centuries. The existing hall was constructed in 1627 during The Ming Dynasty. In the early Ming dynasty, this hall was called Hua Gai Dian (Hall of Overwhelming Glory) but was renamed Zhong Ji Dian (Hall of Central Extremity) in 1562 and Zhong He Dian in 1645 during the Qing Dynasty. This square building has a single pyramid-shaped roof, with a gold plated bronze covering. The floor is paved with high-quality square clay bricks, commonly known as "golden bricks." A throne is placed in the center of the hall and a board hangs above the throne with an inscription written by Emperor Qianlong. The inscription reads: "Yun Jue Zhong," meaning "The Way of Heaven is profound and mysterious and the way of mankind is difficult. Only if we make a precise and unified plan and follow the doctrine of the mean, can we rule the country well."
This hall served as a resting place for the emperor on his way to attend an important ceremony or hold court. Officials kowtowed to the emperor here. The day before the emperor held a sacrificial ceremony he would read the prayer tablet aloud in this hall. Before offering sacrifices at the Altar of the God of Agriculture, the emperor examined ceremonial farm tools here. After the revision of the imperial pedigree, which was revised once every ten years, the emperor read the pedigree out loud and held a grand ceremony at the hall. The words "Zhong He" come from the Book of Rites, meaning "When we handle matters properly and harmoniously without leaning to either side, all things on earth will flourish.
Detail of the lattice work on the upper portion of the doors to the Hall. 0626
Detail of the lower portion of the doors. 0627
Detail of door trim. 0631
Close-up of sign above the throne. It reads "Yun Jue Zhong," and is a quotation by Emperor Qianlong. The translation is, "The Way of Heaven is profound and mysterious and the way of mankind is difficult. Only if we make a precise and unified plan and follow the doctrine of the mean, can we rule the country well." 0636
The Throne! Notice the offering urns on lovely stands at the base of the stairs. 0629
The throne seen from one side, with good views of the two signs. 0632
View of a set of closed doors and surrounding beautiful decorations. 0633
Close-up of doors, showing more detail of the decodrations. 0634
Sign explaining the Hall of Preserved Harmony, which is the second hall directly behind the Hall of Supreme Harmony. 0640
The sign reads,
"BAO HE DIAN
(Hall of Preserved Harmony)
First constructed in 1420 during the Ming dynasty, this hall was destroyed by fire and reconstructed several times. It still retains its original beams and columns. In the early Ming Dynasty it was named Jim Sheng Dian (Hall of Scrupulous Behavior). During the Qing Dynasty, in 1562 it was renamed Jian Ji Dian (Hall of the People's Sovereign) and then Bao He Dian in 1645. The hall is nine bays wide, and four bays deep, with a gable roof and carved overhanging eaves. It has an area of 1,240 square meters. The construction of the hall adopted a special "pillar-reduction" method. By omitting six pillars from under the front eaves, the hall is given a spacious feelings. Above the throne, at the center of the hall, hangs a board with an inscription written by Emperor Qianlong. The inscription reads "Huang Jian You Ji' (the Hightest [sic.]Norms for the Emperor to Found a Regime)
Close-up of the throne. Note its royal yellow color and ornately carved wood surrounds. 0637
Close-up of a metal cauldron standing on the terrace of the Hall of Supreme Harmony. It is protected from visitors by a metal railing. 0642
Long view, showing the cauldron in it's wider setting, with tops of nearby buildings that stand on the ground while the cauldron is sitting on the fourth terrace of the Hall. 0643
A second view through the opening in the wall extending out to the side of the Hall, showing a view of buildings behind and to the side of the Hall. 0644
Buveh on the fourth terrace of the Hall of Supreme Harmony. 0645
Gate and Palace of Heavenly Purity
Gate of Heavenly Purity, three buildings beyond the Hall Of CentralHarmony. 0647
The central portion of the Gate of Heavenly Purity. Note metal cauldron on the right. 0649
Another view, showing more of the pink deorated walls on each side. 0650
Close-up of the pink and print detail. 0652
View of the same, but at an angle, showing the symmetry and elegance of the architecture and decoration. 0653
Female tourists going up a ramp and through an elegantly decorated opening in the wall, to make a "side trip" to the toilets. Note sign on the left saying "Mind Your Step." 0655
Detail of painted decodrations on the underside of the next building's eaves. 0656
Roof guardians on next building. 0659
Best shot of roof guardians. 0658
The Palace of Heavenly Purity, just beyond the Gate of the same name. Note the brass cauldron in the foreground and the beautiful white stone balustrades. Just visible at the right corner of the building is a small, building-shaped something. 0660
Close-up of building-shaped something. I don't know what it is or its purpose. Possibly a lantern. There is one at each corner of the Palace. 0662
Detail of the carved stonework beneath the item pictured above. 0663
Close-up of the carving on the eave peak.. 0665
View back to the Gate. 0666
View of the corner angles of the Palace. 0668
Sign about the Palace of Heavenly Purity. 0670
The sign reads,
"QIAN QING GONG
(Palace of Heavenly Purity)
This palace was constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty and was rebuilt in 1798 during the Qing Dynasty. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the emperor lived and handled political affairs in this palace. After Emperor Yongzheng ascended the throne, he lived in Yang Xing Dian (Hall of Moral Cultivation) and held ceremonies and met officials and foreign envoys in this palace. In the Qing Dynasty, after an emperor passed away, his coffin was kept in this hall, to prove that he had died peacefully. After the memorial ceremony, the coffin was moved to Guan De Dian (Hall for Observing Military Virtue) in Jingshan (Prospect Hill) Park. Finally, the funeral ceremony was held and the deceased emperor was buried in the imperial mausoleum.
The "Heir apparent box", a system secretly set up by emperor Yongzheng, was placed behind the board inscribed with the words "Zheng Da Guang Ming" (Open and Aboveboard). The name of the emperoor's successor, written by the emperor himself, was kept in this box. After the emperor passed away, the secretly appointed crown prince would ascend the throne.
Item within the Palace of Heavenly Purity, photographed from outside. 0671
View of the lovely mirror on the left, reflecting the item above. 0672
Throne with steps leading up to it. Later emperors held audiences here. 0673
Detail of lovely carved wood pillar capital. 0675
View along the portico toward the building 0677
Fantastic decorations, circular beams and other elements of the eave ends. 0678
Nice view of the roof guardians and other eave point decodrations. 0680
Hall of Union and Peace
Great view of the architectural and decorative features of the terrace to the Hall. 0681
Full view, showing buildings above the area in the previous photo. 0682
View across a snow-covered court to the building at the side. 0683
This is a square building rather than the more common rectangular ones found in the City. 0684
Close-up of the carved and painted wooden door.0685
Detail of the above. 0687
I took this photo to record the beautiful colors and elements of the decorations. 0688
View emphasizing the architectural details of the double eaved building. 0689
I turned from the Hall to photograph nearby buildings. 0690
Sign for the Hall of Union and Peace. 0691
The sign reads,
(Hall of Union and Peace)
This hall was constructed from 1522 to 1566 during the Ming Dynasty and was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. This square hall is three bays wide and three bays deep with single eaves and pyramid-shaped roofs on the four corners. Each roof has a gold-plated top similar to but smaller than that of Zhong He Dian (Hall of Supreme Harmony).; In the center of the hall there is a throne, behind which hangs a board inscribed with words written by Emperor Kangxi, meaning “doing nothing.” Below the board, there is a screen with an inscription by Emperor Qianlong, on the left side is a copper clepsydra (a kind of ancient Chinese water clock), and on the right side is a bell. In the Qing Dynasty a yearly grand ceremony was held here on the empress’ birthday, the lunar New Year and the winter solstice. In 1748, Emperor Qianlong placed 25 jade seals, symbolizing imperial power, in this hall. On the “Day of Opening Up Treasures” in the first lunar month, the emperor held a grand ceremony.
The words “Jiao Tai” come from The Book of Changes and mean the union of heaven and earth. Hence, Jiao Tai Hall is situated between Qlan Qing Gong (Palace of Heavenly Purity) and Kun Ning Gong (Hall of Earthly Tranquility).
MADE POSSIBLE BY THE AMERICAN EXPRESS COMPANY. [TRADEMARK]"
Detail of carved stele featuring dragons and birds. 0693
View of the throne area. The two-symbol sign above the writing behind the throne was written by one of the emperors and means, "doing nothing." I guess that's what emperors - or at least that emperor - did. 0694
Details on carved wooden door. 0695
View across snow-covered plaza to building on far side. 0696
Hall of Earthly Tranquility
View across the terrace of the Hall. 0697
Sign for the Hall of Earthly Tranquility. 0699
The sign reads,
(Hall of Earthly Tranquility)
This hall was first constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty and was later rebuilt in 1655 during the Qing Dynasty as a copy of Qing Ning Gong (Palace of Peace and Tranquility) in Shenyang (Liaoning Province). The hall symbolizes Manchu architectural style with its gate on the eastern side rather than in the middle. It was renovated in 1798. It is nine bays wide and three bays deep. This hall has double eaves and a wudian (thatched hall) style roof covered with yellow glazed tiles.
Traditionally, Qian Qing Gong (Palace of Heavenly Purity) AND Kun Ning Gon were where the emperor and empress slept. "Qian Qing" AND "Kun Ning" mean that the "sky is clear, and the earth is peaceful", implying that the emperor would rule the country forever.
Interior of the Hall, photographed through protective glass windows. This was the living quarters of the emperor and empress, so all the rooms are lavishly furnished. 0700
Note the carpeting as well as and the lantern and other things hanging from the ceiling. 0704
Detail of the embroidered bedspread on the huge master bed. The central figure seems to be a rooster. 0706
The next portion of the bedspread on the huge bed. 0708
Note the bedroon furnishings, the wall decorations directly ahead, the elaborately carved wood frame around and above the back portion of the room and the carved door frame on right. Everything is in imperial red with touches of imperial yellow. I wonder if so much red got to the imperial couple. It doesn't seem very restful to me. 0709
Pushy People
It was while enjoying the sight of the interior furnishings and taking photos of them that someone began poking me from behind, as if signaling me to move aside. It was in such contrast to the polite behavior on the part of the numerous Chinese tourists near me that I thought, "How rude!" When it continued, I said, at least twice and rather sharply, "Don't push me!" (Very American of me, I know, but I am an American!) It didn't stop and although I didn't turn around to see who was doing it, I finished taking the photos I wanted and moved on.
We then took the exit through wall on the side into the next portion of the grounds. 0711
With a quick look back, I took a photo of the rear of the Palace. 0712
Adventures in the Imperial Garden!
We found ourselves in the Imperial Garden, which was impressive in spite of winter-barren trees, snow and the cold. Our guide was telling us about the two amazing intertwined ancient cypress trees in the center of the garden that represented the emperor and empress.
Body Guards!
Our guide wanted to take pictures of each of us (singles, couples, or families) in front of the tree. A few of our group had had their photos taken when suddenly we were swooped down upon by a phalanx of body guards shielding an aristocratic couple up to the tree. We were shouldered aside and our guide urgently told us to move out of the way, which we did. Nikki and I moved to the railing along the walkway leading to the tree.
The body guards formed a human perimeter around the Important Couple, facing outward at us lowly onlookers, while the couple posed in front of the tree and an official photographer took their picture. I didn't have a clear sight line to the couple and the body guards were constantly on the lookout for malefactors, so I didn't even try to get close enough to see who the distinguished guests were or take their photo.
Our tour guide spoke to one of the body guards and then told us that the couple were official visitors from (tuh duh!) Korea! Suddenly the Korean flags outside the City entrance, the China national flags flying everywhere on govenrment buildings and around Tienamen Square made sense! I also realized that it had been these body guards who had poked me to get out of the way at the Palace, undoubtedly so the Guests could have an unobstructed view of the interior.
My Revenge
I decided to take my revenge subtly. I calmly faced the body guards nearest me, held my camera at waist level and unobtrusively took several photos of them. I also turned this way and that, taking ovbious photos of various elements of the garden from where I stood. Nancy took the opportunity to escape into a nearby building that was a souvenier shop, where she bought a wonderful coffee table-type book about the Forbidden City.
Here are the photos I took of the body guards.
Body guards 1. 0713
Body guards 2. 0714
Body guards 3. 0715
Nancy heading to the souvenier shop; other shops in the same row. 4. 0716
Body guards 4. 0717
Body guards 5. Starting to move! 0718
Finally the entourage moved on and we returned to our place in line to be photographed at the Tree. Our tour guide took my camera and snapped me in front of the Tree.
Buveh and the Imperial Intertwined Tree in the Imperial Garden of the Forbidden City! 0719
Pictures of beautiful features of the Imperial Garden:
Carved stone lantern or incense burner. 0721
Interesting and beautiful rock taken from a mountain elsewhere in China to grace the Imperial Garden. 0722
Ornately carved white stone enclosure. I can't remember what was inside it and didn't take a photo of whatever it was. 0723
Another mountain stone, placed in a setting of evergreen bushes. 0724
Buveh at the railing where she stood while the Special Guests were surrounded by body guards and she had to wait for her turn to be photographed at the intertwined trees. Note the mountain stone on a stone platform on the right. 0725
Sign explaining the use of cypress trees in the Imperial Garden. 0727
The sign reads,
"Platycladus orientalis (L) Franco.
The imposing cypress with old and hardy branches is often planted in classical garden, courtyard and temple. With long life and beautiful shape, it not only complements imperial architecture but also forms a unique scene itself."
The Hill of Accumulated Elegance
At the back of the garden was an incredible sight. It was an artificial hill made entirely of many of the same type of mountain stones that had appeared individually in other parts of the garden. At the top was a building called the Pavillion of Imperial Scenery.
The hill with a pavilion at its top. 0729
Close-up of the pavilion. 0731
A explanatory sign posted near the hill reads,
(Hill of Accumulated Elegance)
This artificial hill was made of rocks piled on the original site of Guan Hua Dian (Hall of Appreciating Flowers), against the northern palace wall. Originally, it was named Dui Xiu Shan (Hill of Accumulated Embroidery), and in the Qianlong reign period, it was given its present name.
The hill is about 10 meters high. On the top stands Yu Jing Ting (Pavillion of Imperial Scenery), which is reached by a path. At the Double Ninth Festival every year, the emperors, empresses and imperial concubines climbed the hill along the path. Halfway up the hill, there is a brick cave running from east to west. A cave at the foot of the hill has an arched roof, with a stone caisson carved in the shape of a dragon. Over the entrance hangs a horizontal board inscribed with the two words “Dui Xiu” (Accumulated Elegance). Halfway up the hill there are bronze jars to store water. When water runs from the hill, it spurts out of the dragonheads on the backs of lions on the left and right sides of the hill."
Close-up of some of the rocks in the hill. These rocks were brought from the mountains. 0732
Close-up of the ornament and carved wood decoration at the top of the pavilion. 0734
View of top half of the hill. 0737
Entrance to the hill's cave, at the foot of the hill. Only the empress, imperial children and other personages of high standing were allowed to enter there. 0742
The sign in front of the entrance reads, "A single act of carelessness leads to the eternal loss of beauty." That is a much nicer, and more poetic, way to say, "Keep off the hill!" Or "Violators will be prosecuted." Or whatever else our direct, Western way of saying it would be.
Our tour guide told us that an emperor's successor would not necessarily be his first born son. All the emperor's sons had to prove themselves. The one who was bravest, most accomplished, etc., would be designated as the next emperor. One challenge given to the sons as young boys was to climb the hill faster than the other boys.
A view of the garden from my vantage point near the base of the hill. It is a lovely place. 0736
From the garden, we went around and behind its northern wall and found ourselves in a walkway maze that lead past other buildings to the northern gate, which is an exit from the Forbidden City.
This elephant statue was one sight we saw on our way out. 0743
The sign at the northern gate. 0744
The sign reads,
(Gate of divine Prowess)
Our tour group troops through the tunnel that is the northern gate of the Forbidden City. 0745
A quick look back at the Northern Gate from the outside. I took the photo so I would know what it looked like from that side. 0746
A farewell glance at the Forbidden City, looking back at the northern gate, through which we had just exited. 0747
Our tour guide led us at a rapid pace away from the perimeter of the Forbidden City to where our bus and driver were awaiting us to take us to our next stop, the Temple of Heaven, which will be the subject of my next blog posting.
